Approaching the first anniversary of this blog is a good time to give a rundown of my rotation as of November 2021. After a slightly fallow period, I've started picking up some interesting new purchases again - expect more reviews in the new few months.
I'm also going to give RRP vs. what I actually paid prices - this is often glossed over when discussing hobbies, but I think it can be useful to know. Some quick maths - this collection has a combined retail price of about £23,000, for which I paid about £8,000. That's split over the 15 or so years that I've been collecting (though I've also bought and sold many more pairs than that in that time).
Derby Shoes
Crockett & Jones Windsor Handgrade Water Bison Derby
A really interesting new addition, purchased NOS but likely 40 or 50 years old. Expect a detailed review in the future as well as a comparison to a modern C&J Handgrade shoe. A super cool, vintage design - the bison leather is really striking, and very soft and pliable.
RRP - hard to say, unlikely to ever spot one of these again. Modern C&J Handgrade is around £450
Paid - £150 (eBay)
Edward Green Dover, Nightshade
Relatively well-worn, but a versatile pair in one of Edward Green's more underrated leather colourways. Nightshade is a sort of purple-burgundy that is more flexible than you may think.
RRP - £1,200
Paid - £350 (eBay)
Edward Green Dover, Dark Oak and Lavagna Suede
One of my favourite pairs, though admittedly rather formal to get a lot of daily wear. Bi-material Dover makeups are unusual, and I've never seen another one like this. Dark oak is a fabulous colour, and the grey of the Lavagna suede makes a great contrast. Purchased in as new condition - this is the highest amount I've paid for a shoe, but buying Dovers on eBay is an expensive endeavour as they retain their price well.
RRP - £1,500
Paid - £800 (eBay)
Edward Green Dover, Olive Suede
Purchased in excellent condition, though I confess the olive colour isn't actually all that useful. I may well get these recoloured to black, which I think is rather striking in suede.
RRP - £1,200
Paid - £350 (eBay)
Edward Green Vintage Derby, Clove
A pair that gets a lot of wear - the orange-brown colouring is just so useful with jeans, flannels, chinos, whatever really. The heels do have some chunky protruding nails that make an impressive noise when walking.
RRP - £965
Paid - £280 (eBay)
John Lobb Apron Front Derby, Black Scotch Grain
God help me but I love a chunky black Derby shoe, especially in a textured leather. These get heaps of wear - the soles are super high grip and comfy to walk in.
RRP - £1,200
Paid - £380 (eBay)
Church's Apron Front Derby Shoes
Another pleasingly chunky model, from a maker with a lot of history (although admittedly not a lot of good recent history). My go-to option for bad weather, they've certainly picked up a lot of patina over the years.
RRP - £400
Paid - £15 (Charity shop)
John Lobb St James Bespoke Derby
I've bought a lot of used bespoke shoes online over the years - the fit is so hard to get right that this is the only pair I've ever kept. The shape is rather idiosyncratic - rather bulbous from certain angles - but the comfort is great and the leather quality is just astonishing. A great pair, and certainly not a maker I could ever entertain at the retail price. Purchased for a pretty punchy price, admittedly, but they've proven a good investment.
RRP - £5,000+
Paid - £780 (classicshoesformen.com)
Crockett & Jones Pembroke Shell Cordovan, Dark Brown
A classic, chunky brogue from C&J in a dark brown shell cordovan. About as classic as designs get, these haven't seen a lot of wear yet, but were picked up for a great price (I don't think the seller knew they were shell).
RRP - £695
Paid - £200 (Drop93)
Crockett & Jones Pembroke Shell Cordovan, Whiskey
Same model as the above, but in whiskey cordovan. A very rare full RRP purchase for me. The leather is fabulous, though I do find the shoe sizing on this one bizarre - they are a UK 9.5 as all my shoes are and they do fit fine, but they are rather large in almost every way compared to my other shoes.
RRP - £696
Paid - £695 (Crockett & Jones)
Oxfords
Saint Crispin's Mod 104 Austerity Brogue
A fantastic shoe - Saint Crispin really do make some of the finest shoes in the world for the money. Regrettably, I damaged the leather on these with some Saphir Renovateur, which it turns out should never be used on the relatively delicate crust leather favoured by the brand. These are in line for a recolouring by a patina artist in the future.
RRP - £1,350
Paid - £700 (Ascot Shoes)
Edward Green Adelaide Captoe Brogue
A vintage model from Edward Green, probably dating from the 1990s. A slightly wider fit, but these are a go-to choice when I need a comfortable but still dressy shoe.
RRP - £965
Paid - £250 (eBay)
Edward Green Chelsea Oxford
Edward Green's most confusingly named shoe, but this is a real classic design. I'd go so far as to say this is the world's best captoe Oxford. The distinctive feature is the swan-neck stitch along the laces, and on the whole it's an understated, supremely useful shoe.
RRP - £965
Paid - £300 (eBay)
Crockett & Jones Audley Handgrade Oxford
An excellent shoe from C&J's higher-end Handgrade line, most recently worn for my wedding. Having put it through a fairly intense regimen of walking, standing and dancing I can say it's impressively comfortable, but it's also a really well put together, very flexible shoe.
RRP - £450
Paid - £250 (eBay)
Derby boots
John Lobb Hunter Boots
Unusual model from John Lobb - a combo of Derby lace-up and ankle strap that may seem a bit gimmicky at first, but is actually surprisingly handy at getting a comfortable fit. The Scotch grain leather takes a fantastic shine, and with trousers concealing the strap they actually look surprisingly dressy.
RRP - £1,200
Paid - £200 (eBay)
Crockett & Jones Suede Brogue Boots
A recent purchase - C&J don't currently offer any suede brogue boots, and I've found them pretty useful. Originally purchased on a terrible, sticky and dirty set of crepe soles, I had them resoled on Dainite.
RRP - £390
Paid - £65 (eBay)
Tricker's Stow Country Boots
One of my oldest pairs, resoled from the original leather. Many underestimate how versatile the C-shade leather is. Originally owned (no joke) by Eric Clapton.
RRP - £495
Paid - £150 (Charity shop)
Poulsen Skone.Co for New & Lingwood Derby Boots
A replacement for a rather old pair of Loake boots made for Charles Tyrwhitt - also a cherry red, Scotch grain leather Derby boot. These were made by Cheaney for New & Lingwood - they are a touch on the small side, so I'll probably be looking to sell them rather than wear them in a lot.
RRP - £550
Paid - £200 (eBay)
Crockett & Jones Harlech Shell Cordovan
A lovely grail pair - the shell has a brilliant shine and lustre to it. Highly recommended if you have the option to pick them up.
RRP - £810
Paid - £250
Crockett & Jones Coniston Roughout Suede
The Coniston is a classic design, and the roughout suede models offer a great level of weather resistance. The Vibram soles are super grippy and pleasingly chunky.
RRP - £495
Paid - £150 (eBay)
Crockett & Jones Islay Boots
The best brogue boots on the market? Almost certainly. In a Scotch grain dark brown leather, these polish up very presentably, but have also seen some very long, muddy and wet walks.
RRP - £510
Paid - £510 (Crockett & Jones)
Chelsea boots
Crockett & Jones Chelsea 11 Boots
From the first run of Crockett & Jones "Black Edition", these feature black Scotch grain uppers and a hefty Vibram sole.
RRP - £480
Paid - £480 (Crockett & Jones)
R.M. Williams Kangaroo Chelsea Boots
Okay, these don't photograph very well - but kangaroo leather is supremely soft and pliable.
RRP - £400
Paid - £15 (Charity shop)
Chukka boots
Edward Green Banbury Suede Chukka Boots
A very classic model of 3 eyelet chukka boot. Mink suede is a dark and pretty dressy choice.
RRP - £1,150
Paid - £300 (eBay)
John Lobb Chukka Boot
An unusual one from JL - a 2 eyelet chukka that sits rather high on the ankle. The leather has a pleasant patina, and is well worn enough that I don't need to worry about wearing them in the rain.
RRP - £1,200
Paid - £180 (eBay)
Tricker's Polo Chukka Boot
A very comfortable and useful model - it's unlined in very pliable leather. Not really substantial enough to deal with rain very well, but the last is casual and easy to work with.
RRP - £395
Paid - £190 (eBay)
Hiker boots
Vermodalen St Denis Duotone Boots
Purchased as part of a fairly lengthy Kickstarter. I love the combination of brown and black leather and the highly grippy soles; I dislike the squeaky leather and dodgy quality control that lead to some really uncomfortable creases on the lining that dig into your feet when walking.
RRP - £300
Paid - £200 (Kickstarter)
Meindl Bhutan Boots
A "proper" hiking boot - Goretex lined, extremely secure fit when laced, Memory Foam around the ankles and very sturdy nubuck uppers.
RRP - £240
Paid - £240 (Cotswolds outdoor)
Viberg 2055 Hunter Hiking Boot
Purchased as part of Marrkt's Viberg sale - in roughout tobacco suede, these have proven a very worthwhile purchase. Completely impervious to the elements, and strangely attractive in spite of a somewhat blobby last.
RRP - £500
Paid - £250 (Marrkt)