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  • Sam

Cheaney for Poulsen Skone & Co. for New & Lingwood: Derby boot review

Updated: Dec 14, 2021

It's been a while since I had any Cheaney pairs in my rotation - nothing particularly against the quality of their product, but since their designs can sometimes veer towards the gimmicky and I find my taste in shoes increasingly conservative, the overlap is simply quite small.

I snagged these through eBay to replace a well-loved but frankly rather tired pair of red derby boots from Charles Tyrwhitt, pictured below - the styling of the CT pair was just a bit clunky for my current collection, but in spite of previously claiming to have a conservative taste, I do have something of a penchant for a nice red pair of boots.

Charles Tyrwhitt boots made by Loake

Price paid was £190 against a new RRP of £395 - a touch more than I'd normally pay on eBay, but they were in pristine condition.

I confess I had to double check the original maker for these since Cheaney, the actual maker, is two steps removed from the brands Poulsen Skone and New & Lingwood. N&L had previously absorbed the Poulen Skone name and had shoes made for the name under a couple of makers.

At a glance it can actually be quite hard to tell the Edward Green sizing label from the Cheaney higher-end model sizing labels - comparison photos are below - since the writing for the size label and the oval design of the label is similar. But the styling is quite clearly a Cheaney model, and it's apparent that details like the welt join are more Cheaney quality than EG.

Cheaney sizing label
Edward Green sizing label

The boot is attractive overall - a slim profile and most of the design details are done with rows of stitching - note the triple row on the toecap section here:

And the inverted arrowhead just underneath the pull tab:

The side shot is attractive, with the heel section bordered out with a single row of stitching, which runs alongside the vamp and the eyelets.

The leather is a Scotch grain effect in a rich brown-burgundy.

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