Long-time readers will know my fondness for Edward Green - they are one of the "Big Three" high-end British makers alongside John Lobb and Gaziano & Girling. Their output is generally defined by excellent materials and construction if rather conservative design compared to the other two makers in the same bracket.
During my recent eBay trawls, I've seen some interesting pairs come up from seller haller_of_beverley. These Edward Green pairs are sample shoes or what appear to be prototypes of new models that never got put into full production - they have always been too small for me to pick up, sized about UK 7, but for fans of the brand, they are interesting curiosities.
All pairs are marked "sample" in the sizing label. A commenter asked if they could be bespoke shoes - as far as I know EG stopped making full bespoke when Tony Gaziano left, and given they are all marked "sample" it seems logical.
Alligator lazyman loafers
A striking pair, for two good reasons: alligator leather is quite rare in Edward Green's output, only available on request and of course commanding a staggeringly high price for the quality they use. Secondly, the lazyman design - not one I'm aware that Edward Green use in any other capacity - is more commonly found from bespoke makers due to the quite finicky nature of the fit. I would have been all over these if they had been in my size!
Chisel-toe Adelaide oxford
Edward Green's most popular Adelaide Oxford in their core rotation is the Canterbury, which is rather less aggressively styled than the pair above - the sharp edges of the facing broguing and the chisel toe look more like a pair of Gaziano & Girling or Antonio Meccariello than Edward Green's usual style. A very cool pair - I like the diamond-shaped brogue holes too - but a bit at odds with the rest of their collections.
Navy peccary leather penny loafers
This seems to be a variation on EG's well-known Piccadilly loafer, but with the strap continuing all the way to the sole edge instead of stopping just below the topline. It's a relatively sharp toe shape, but what stands out here is the bold navy leather used, which certainly appears to be peccary leather - an expensive material that I've not seen used in their core production, but which is supple enough to make excellent loafers from.
Adelaide Wingtip Brogues
An eye-catching pair, if a bit of a busy design - I can see why these remained as samples. The broguing at the toe is quite extensive, and it continues to the scalloped heel, which puts me in mind of the Gaziano & Girling St James II. I think the Adelaide lacing throws the balance off here - the whole thing looks a bit crowded.
Captoe brogue Derby
Now that is a grained leather - note the difference in colour, which looks rather like one shoe was stored and the other kept in sunlight for some time. I like this pair - still quite a sharp and dressy profile compared to a lot of EG Derbies. They also appear to be Storm Welted, which is surprising given the style and unusual for EG.
So that's it - always worth keeping an eye on eBay for these weird things!
I'm fairy certain these are handwelted and with handstitched outsole. Even the top drawer pairs have less defined fudgewheel marking. If only they were 7.5F, i'd try to snag a pair!
I wouldn't be surprised if they are bespoke, or were at least made to bespoke standards - perhaps as display pieces of some sort. Pity we can't see inside for signs that they're hand welted (I found the now-completed listings to look). I suspect that they are.
I also wouldn't be surprised if they were made with Tony Gaziano's input, unless there's good reason to believe that they're too recent.
That chiselled adelaide would be my pick of the bunch. I'm glad they aren't my size or I'd be bothered that I missed them.
These look exactly like Edward Green's Bespoke shoes. Are you sure that's not what they are ?